
The Great Mall: Shopping at the historic site
I went to the Great Wall today and the Atlanta Olympics broke out.
Okay, maybe it wasn't quite as tacky as Atlanta '96
where almost every inch of the downtown sidewalks was filled with folks
hawking shoddy merchandise and souvenirs. But after driving some 50
kilometers northeast from the Beijing Olympic site to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall,
I was hoping to escape the cacophony of commerce. Instead, we—me and my
Beijing hosts Melinda and Alick—had to run a gauntlet of stalls manned
by hyper-aggressive merchants who shrieked cold water, beer, bananas,
postcards in order to get to the lifts that would get us up the hills
and onto the Wall. And we also had to take a pass on the Great Wall
Restaurant, where a large Coca-Cola billboard promised that Coke went
swell with noodles, dumplings and fried rice. And by the way, did we
want our picture taken with some costumed ancient Chinese warriors?
We
Olympic reporters are extraordinarily diligent. OK, not all of them,
but definitely me. I haven't taken a day off from Olympic competition
since the '98 Games in Nagano, where I went to the mountains to see the
snow monkeys and followed that with a session in a traditional Japanese
bathhouse. I never got to the Acropolis in Athens. But I was damned if
I was going to come all the way to China for the first and possibly
last time and not see its colossus. After two weeks submerged in the
Olympic cocoon, the Wall beckoned with at least as much power as a
two-star restaurant did at my very first Olympics in Albertville. And I
lucked into the kind of day that gives lie to the canards about
polluted and eternally hazy, gray skies here.
Hailing from
Boston, I know a thing or two about great walls. And I've had
the thrill of being atop the Green Monster, the famous left-field
wall at Fenway Park. But even I have to admit that my home-town wall,
not yet a century old and big only by baseball standards, doesn't quite
measure up to this Great one. The current Wall dates back to the Ming
Dynasty, which lasted more than two centuries beginning in 1368, and
stretches some 4,000 miles. From our perch we could look to Beijing in
the south and to what was once Outer Mongolia in the north, the great
heathen threat that the Wall was built to keep out. (While the wall was
largely a defensive military endeavor, Great Walls are also great place
to collect taxes and assorted duties from less threatening travelers.)
Signs
at the lift, a ski slope T-bar, warned that the Wall was no place for
"weak elderly persons", but I decided to venture forth anyway. I was
armed with a disposable camera, a novelty item for me since I haven't
taken a picture in about a decade. So the snapshots will fit neatly
into our album after my daughter's 10th birthday party. I'm a words and
memories kind of guy, but I wanted a fallback in case words failed me.
Despite the warning below, I was prepared all the climbing—I think I
did the equivalent of at least two Eiffel towers—to get from one
watchtower to another. More-over, despite a major restoration effort by
the Chinese government, the steps—narrow, broken, uneven--are more
treacherous than driving in Boston. So the going is very slow. Even the
young can find it daunting. One young lady from New Orleans was seated
clinging to the rail, trying to shake a dizzy spell from the heat and
heights. (One thing the Wall was lacking was those drive-thru or
walk-thru frozen daiquiri places that New Orleans has; they would do
very well.)

The classic view
Once
you made it up the steps and out of the sun inside the towers, you
enjoyed cool breezes and spectacular views. And my blackberry worked
too, which admittedly is so not 14th century. I called my wife back
home anyway. "Honey, I am on the Great Wall!" I am the embodiment of
the Ugly American. Of course, the vendors were there too so the place
wasn't exactly holy or remotely pristine. They were trying to hawk
drinks at extortionate prices of $4 for a soda that you probably could
have negotiated for 25 cents down below. Of course, they had carried
them up, which demands a slightly higher price. Nobody expects you to
pay asking price, but some Westerners aren't familiar or comfortable
with the art/science of haggling.
Finally, we'd had our fill of beauty and breezes and breakneck risks
on the staircases so we queued up for the ride down. The preferred way
is a toboggan ride, with one lever controlling both speed—no more than
about 19 mph—and braking, inside a metal chute that curves down the
slope. There were more warnings about drinking, drugs and driving and,
on top of the price of the ticket, they even offered insurance for 1
yuan extra, or about 15 cents. But I declined, confident that my auto
policy back home covered all risks. Besides, I had bigger worries. As I
watched the folks mount the little motorized vehicles, I noticed that,
on occasion, they would whisk away the normal toboggan and offer
oversized drivers an extra large one.
Fortunately, I was spared that indignity and managed to get to the
bottom without rear-ending Alick in front of me. We celebrated with a
lunch—beef stroganoff Beijing style—that will assure that if there is a
next time at the Wall, I'm destined for the extra large toboggan.