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  • A Cameo for Comrade Niemeyer

    Mac Margolis | Dec 9, 2008 02:10 PM

    Oscar Niemeyer needs few introductions. For the uninitiated, suffice it to say that Niemeyer is best known as the architect who for decades has jewelled the Brazilian skyline (and a few others as well) with soaring, swooping sculptures of reinforced concrete, which also happen to serve as buildings.

    So perhaps it is only fitting that Niemeyer, who recently turned 101, is the theme of the latest collection by world famous jeweler H. Stern. Only thing is, Niemeyer is also an unreconstructed communist, who never misses a chance to pillory plutocrats and capitalist fat cats, whose fairest necks Stern's creations have exquisitely adorned.

    Marxism isn't what it used to be, of course. And if there's one thing Niemeyer hates more than capitalism, it's the right angle. So as long as there are swerves, loops, bends and curls to create, comrade Niemeyer is at home. Which is apparently exactly what H. Stern had in mind when it signed on Brazil's master builder for the collection that debuts December 15.

    With 160 stores in 12 countries, not to mention the fleet of floating shops on ocean liners, H. Stern is one of the major names in the luxury trade. Founded by German emigré Hans Stern, who died last year at age 85, the Rio de Janeiro based business is known for elevating tourmalines, opals, topaz and other onetime "semi precious" colored gemstones from the bauble business to high fashion.

    The company is now in the hands of the second generation of the Stern family. It is also one of the leading names in the vanishing elite of family owned jewelry empires--reckoned to rank among the top five brands worldwide--and the only major jeweler committed to working all aspects of the  trade, from the mine shaft to the madam: buying stones, cutting and designing jewels, and retailing. In recent years, the company has invested in niche collections, inspired by the work of top Brazilian sculptors, artists and fashionistas, such as Diane von Furstenberg.

    The latest collection takes its cues from Niemeyer's curvaceous and always playful lines, albeit scaled down from the architect's patented epic oeuvre to the jeweler's petite. Highlights includes a bracelet that emulates the Edifício Copan, a serpentine office tower gracing the choc-a-block skyline of São Paulo:  


     And a pair of ear rings that echo the mountainlike facade of the Pampulha, a church and community center encrusted in the hills of Belo Horizonte:

     

     Who says you can't go well-dressed to the revolution?

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