This week the town is aflutter with Hollywood celebs and wannabes as the 17th annual Sundance Film Festival takes over through Jan. 24. Though the streets and restaurants are packed with glitterati and Looky Lous, it's not too late to book; there's still room at the lodge. And if you just want to play in the snow, there's plenty of thrill-seeking fun. Tara Weingarten, a special correspondent in the Los Angeles Bureau, loves to visit Park City in the winter, but this week she's happy to watch all the stars jet away and leave Tinseltown's freeways a little less congested.

Ski and Snowboard: Not surprisingly, the runs are empty this week, as most visitors are desperate to catch a celeb or see the next blockbuster flick. If you're game, hit the challenging Canis Lupus run at the Canyons ski area, which is also a great place to stay, with rooms—many with kitchens and fireplaces—still available (thecanyons.com). Loved for its milelong natural halfpipe, which doles out radical banks and turns, it starts at 10,800 feet. And if you're really an adrenaline junkie, hop onto the less crowded DreamCatcher and DreamScape lifts, where you'll find fresh powder even days after a snowstorm.

Pamper: If you're the one in your party who doesn't ski, make everyone jealous of how relaxed you look after you indulge in an enzyme-peel facial or hot stone massage at the Canyons' Grand Summit Hotel (thecanyons.com/healthclub).

Eats: Popular even when Ben Affleck isn't in town, Chimayo (chimayorestaurant.com) serves flavorful and authentic Southwestern cuisine in a cozy Santa Fe-ish decor. I know it's not Santa Fe, but it seems that Park City folk like that whole vibe. Situated along the main street in the center of town, Chimayo is an easy meeting point if you're joining up with friends. It's more expensive than it merits, but most Park City cafes are pricey in high season. At least the food is good. Try the Queso Fundido ($24), a cheesy communal dish served with fresh tortilla chips and full of mushrooms and jalapenos.

Scoot: See gorgeous Utah backcountry while zipping through valleys and over pine-covered hills on a snowmobile. Thousand Peaks snowmobiles (thousandpeaks.com) will pick you up at your hotel and take you to the largest private ranch in Utah. You'll have more than 60,000 acres of snowy wilderness to explore (cattle roam the property only in summer). Beginner to expert, $129 for a two-hour tour.

Kids: If you got 'em, take them tubing at Gorgoza Park (parkcitymountain.com). A two-hour pass ($19) gets you a big, bouncy inner tube and access to the park's three lifts. That's right, no trudging up the hill. There are three beginner (not so steep and perfect for the under-7 set) and four advanced tubing lanes, which can allow for speeds up to 30 mph. Grown-ups go mad for it too. Kids ages 5 to 12 can play on a miniature snowmobile track for an added fee.