People tell me all the time how much they hate L.A. When I ask why,
they cite our unsightly urban sprawl and a lack of culture. I can't
deny we spend too many hours on clogged freeways. But a lack of
culture? To these people, I say, come see the Los Angeles I know, where
culture comes in unexpected ways. Oh yeah, and while the Midwest and
East Coast are still braving ice storms, we here in Southern California
are dining al fresco and sailing along the coast under cloudless skies.
Stay: Live like a rock star at the Hotel Bel-Air (http://www.hotelbelair.com/),
where a typical day on the sun-mottled patio restaurant brings
sightings of real rock stars, legends like Nancy Reagan and
international glitterati. Bungalows with private patios and French
country furnishings are tucked among the über-verdant foliage and
old-growth trees in this exclusive residential Bel-Air neighborhood.
Rates from $395.
The Huntley Hotel (thehuntleyhotel.com)
in Santa Monica towers over the Pacific with views of the landmark
Santa Monica Pier and its rainbow-colored Ferris wheel. Rooms were
recently renovated in midcentury swank but with modern touches like
flat-screen TVs and marble baths. One of the city's hottest hotel bars,
the Penthouse, sparks a party each night 18 floors above the coastline
with views that do it justice. Rates from $350.
Eats: The vaunted Michelin guide recently bestowed a star on Ortolan (ortolanrestaurant.com),
an opulent and exquisite restaurant serving modern French fare by
superchef Christophe Eme. The cream-colored dining room, with its
deeply tufted banquettes, wide-plank oak floors and array of crystal
chandeliers is intimate and romantic, and oh-so-beyond the typical L.A.
scene--even though it's in the heart of West Hollywood. Try my
favorite, the roasted monkfish with chorizo, lemon confit, artichoke
and baby arugula for $39.
Don't be put off by the beauty crowd that gathers daily for a seat at Il Pastaio (giacominodrago.com),
Beverly Hills's most popular outdoor trattoria. Angelinos don't flock
here for the people-watching (though it's formidable) but the food:
tender pastas, flavorful risottos and the best panna cotta on Earth.
Get here before noon or be prepared to wait at least an hour.
Float: Learn to sail, kayak, row or windsurf at the UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (e-mail: MAC@recreation.ucla.edu)
in Marina del Rey. Or, if you already know how, just rent a boat for
the afternoon. There are group, private and kids' lessons. And at the
end of the day, bring something to barbeque on the beach as you watch
the sun set.
Gaze: Recently reopened after a five-year renovation, the Griffith Park Observatory (griffithobs.org)
is one of the city's most enchanting public buildings. Opened in 1935,
it is a pristine example of the art deco architecture that flourished
in Hollywood's halcyon years. On clear nights, the observatory's
original 12-inch Zeiss telescope is open for visitors to take a peek
into the heavens. Check the Web site for stargazing schedules and
astronomy lectures.
The nation's largest collection of camellia bushes--34,000 of them--are in bloom now through May at Descanso Gardens (descanso.com).
Once an old-growth oak forest, the 150-acre park still has scores of
the shady California Live Oaks, as well as meandering paths that wind
through incredibly colorful flowering bushes. It's an ideal spot to
enjoy the springtime California sun.
Pony Up:
Go horseback riding in the hills near the historic Hollywood sign and
take in views that stretch from Dodger Stadium to the Pacific Ocean at Sunset Ranch (sunsetranchhollywood.com).
Rides start at $25 for an hour but the Sunset Dinner Ride, a four-hour
trip to a nearby Mexican restaurant, is a steal at $75 per person (not
including food.)
Cruise: Visit Segway of Los Angeles (http://www.segway.la/)
and see the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice the way locals do. Hop
on an easy-to-maneuver Segway and ride the bike strand that takes you
past palm tree-studded "Muscle Beach," the Santa Monica pier and
thousands of toned and tanned bods: $75 for a two-hour tour. Sunblock
not included.
