By Joanna Chen

The vibrant, edgy city of Tel Aviv has become the undisputed cultural center of Israel, effortlessly blending old and new. With its long stretches of sandy beaches, museums, concert houses, eclectic architecture and livewire nightlife, it's really earned its title as the city that never sleeps.   

Hint: Don't drive, walk. Driving into Tel Aviv takes a bit of nerve for someone like me who's successfully avoided living in cities for most of my life. The one-way system is infuriating, the parking fine attendants are ruthless and there is nowhere-but-nowhere to park. So use public transport to get around or, better still, walk it. One of the best ways to appreciate Tel Aviv is by simply taking to the streets.
     
Sights: Start at the Azrieli Center, a complex of three skyscrapers towering over the southern entrance to Tel Aviv, one circular, one triangular and one square. Skip the huge shopping mall and business center (touted as the biggest in the Middle East) and take the elevator to the Observatory on the 49th floor for an exceptional view of this sprawling city that reaches as far as the twinkling seashore on the western side. Then take a brisk half-hour walk (or a taxi) from this epicenter of modernity to the Nachum Gutman Museum (gutmanmuseum.co.il) for a colorful glimpse of Tel Aviv history. Housed in a beautiful fin de siècle building, it contains a choice selection of the naive, pioneering works by the foremost Tel Aviv artist for whom it's named.

Streets: On almost every street in the old center of Tel Aviv, you'll come across Bauhaus buildings. Stroll down the Rothschild Boulevard at any time of the day or night and admire the impressive architecture while rubbing shoulders with local celebrities. Wander through the trendy Neve Tzedek neighborhood just off the bustling Carmel fruit and vegetable market. And, of course, at the end of every street there's something to satisfy those taste buds. Sample dark chocolate truffles at Dolce Vita and drop into Jajo Vino  (972 3 5100620) to sip fine French Chablis or local Chardonnay and watch the world go by.     
 
Eats: I've always let my taste buds lead the way so Tel Aviv is perfect for me, an amazing treasure trove of gastronomic delights, from corner stalls selling falafel in four different varieties to ritzy restaurants serving everything from bona fide Mediterranean cuisine to sushi. And by the way, Tel Avivians definitely like their sushi. With more than one hundred sushi eateries, Tel Aviv is the third largest sushi market per capita in the world, close on the heels of Tokyo and New York. For truly imaginative sushi, try the bamba-sushi at Susheido (972 3 5177794), a mouthwatering delicacy filled with hot peanut butter.

Treats: Shop for forgotten treasures at Old Jaffa's flea market (open Sunday-Thursday) and explore the many galleries tucked away in the tiny alleyways of this ancient seaport. Stop by Ali Karawan's on Dolphin Street for hummus that only the taxi drivers and locals know about. St. Peter's Church, whose slender belfry towers over Jaffa, is well worth popping into, or at least Napoleon Bonaparte thought so back in 1799 when he conquered Jaffa. And on Fridays, make your way down to the Drummers' Beach, just south of Jaffa, and catch a rhythmic slice of Tel Aviv life at the drummers' circle from sunset until late. Finally, brush off the sand between your toes and dine on tender shrimp and calamari in tangy lemon Parmesan sauce at the nearby Manta Ray restaurant, where diners are lulled by the sight of waves lapping gently on the shore of this city that never sleeps (mantaray.co.il).