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Posted Monday, June 09, 2008 6:38 PM

Correspondents' Picks: San Francisco, Calif.

Newsweek

By Kristin Luna 

A recent transplant from New York City, Bay Area-based travel writer Kristin Luna is enjoying getting to know her new home through an ongoing culinary and culture tour of what she considers to be America’s greatest city. Read her top finds thus far.

STAY: With the InterContinental’s (Tel. 888-811-4273; www.intercontinentalsanfrancisco.com) prime position directly across the street from the Moscone Center, which plays host to many a global convention, you couldn’t ask for better convenience. Situated just south of Market Square and Union Square, the majority of San Francisco’s most desirable bits are right at your doorstep. If you prefer a more personalized, bed-and-breakfast-type stay, but don’t want t to sacrifice location, the downtown eco-chic Orchard Garden Hotel (Tel. 415-399-9807; www.theorchardgardenhotel.com) in the Financial District, is the perfect option. California’s first LEED-certified hotel and the third of its kind in the nation, the Orchard Garden’s light and airy rooms sport a cheery color scheme of pale yellow and, what else, but green (seafoam, that is). Think: Martha Stewart, only much trendier (and lacking shackles). The lobby restaurant, Roots (Tel. 415-659-0349; www.therootsrestaurant.com), has such an inventive and decadent menu that you needn’t even leave the hotel during your stay. Other popular lodging options are the Four Seasons (Tel. 415-633-3000; www.fourseasons.com/sanfrancisco) and the Mandarin Oriental (Tel. 415-276-9888; www.mandarinoriental.com).

EAT: On par with New York in terms of American culinary excellence, you won’t be hard-pressed for quality dining in the Bay Area. The edgy Incanto (Tel. 415-641-4500; www.incanto.biz) in Noe Valley has made waves for its daring use of food not typically utilized in such gourmet meals (e.g. green peaches, acorns). In keeping with San Francisco’s environment-friendly approach to everything, the Italian eatery has a “waste not, want not” sort of philosophy and was one of the original restaurants to offer a head-to-heel menu. SoMa (South of Market) houses several hip dining joints in its industrial spaces, like Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant (Tel. 415-777-4200; www.sf-local.com) and Oola (Tel. 415-995-2061; www.oola-sf.com). Nearby Coco 500 (Tel. 415-543-2222; www.coco500.com) is the perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks and appetizers; the cocktail list is creative, and everything on the menu - particularly the mushroom flatbread - is delicious. In the southern part of the city, Mission institution Foreign Cinema (Tel. 415-648-7600; www.foreigncinema.com) is one of the city’s most beloved eating establishments, not only screening films (as its name suggests), but serving fantastic French fare, as well.

DRINK: Who doesn’t like an unmarked bar with the utmost air of exclusivity? To be admitted to the central Bourbon & Branch (Tel. 415-673-1921; www.bourbonandbranch.com), call in advance, book a table, and obtain a password that must be covertly whispered to the hostess upon admittance. The novel-size menu of sophisticated drinks paired with the feeling that you should be sitting in the back library - accessed via secret bookcase passageway, naturally - puffing cigars in a tweed jacket while sipping scotch (on the rocks) is priceless. Just be sure and abide by the “house rules.” Nearby Swig (Tel. 415-931-7292; www.swigbar.com) is a little more low key, with its soaring ceilings, dark atmosphere and crackling fireplace. If you’re easily lured in by promises of kitsch or a Disneyland-like theme, hit up Tonga Room (Tel. 415-772-5278), located in the Fairmont Hotel and open since 1945, or Bigfoot Lodge (Tel. 415-440-2355; www.bigfootlodge.com) with its entire drink list and décor devoted to the legendary Sasquatch. Russian Hill’s Bar Johnny (Tel. 415-268-0140; www.barjohnny.com) is a more local establishment with a Cheers-like quality and an extremely charismatic owner of the same name who’s usually on hand to chat with those milling about. Younger sister of New York’s TriBeCa property, champagne bar Bubble Lounge (Tel. 415-434-4204; sanfrancisco.bubblelounge.com) is a hit on Tuesday through Saturday - the nights doors are open to boozers far and wide - particularly on the last Wednesday of every month, when it holds its popular burlesque show. One of the city’s newest hotspots is beer house Monk’s Kettle (Tel. 415-865-9523; www.monkskettle.com) in the artsy Mission, offering 24 brews on tap. Should you find Monk too overbearingly crowded - if you don’t arrive before the happy hour crowd, you’ll often incur a lengthy wait for a table (and the bar takes no reservations) - wander down the bar-packed 16th Street and find something else to suit your taste buds.
 
DAY TRIPS: Northern California is not lacking in diversity: Perhaps San Francisco’s greatest draw is its proximity to a plethora of things to do from sipping wine in some of the world’s most famed vineyards to scaling peaks with sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. From Wine Country to Stinson Beach and nearby Mt. Tamalpais, the Bay Area is a hotbed of activity. To the direct north is Sausalito and Marin County, home to boats, beaches and trails (oh my!) galore. Less than two hours south by car is Monterey Bay and Carmel-by-the-Sea, charming towns with active waterfronts. Most visitors aim directly for Wine Country as soon as they hightail it out of San Francisco, but instead of laying your head to sleep in Napa Proper, pick a place in one of the Valley’s more endearing towns, like Yountville, which boasts the world-renowned (albeit impossible to book a table) French Laundry (Tel. 707-944-2380; www.frenchlaundry.com) and the stunning, sprawling estate Villagio Inn (Tel. 707-944-8877; www.villagio.com) that just welcomed the addition of a 13,000-square-foot spa. Or head to nearby Aspen-like St. Helena, which offers rustic, yet luxe accommodation like Harvest Inn (Tel. 800-950-8466, www.harvestinn.com), and enjoy crackling fireplaces and well-manicured gardens among a serene backdrop. 

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