By Elisa Mala

Poet Dylan Thomas referred to his birthplace as an "ugly, lovely town," but with centuries of history showcased alongside cutting-edge architecture, this fishing village and resort town (called Abertawe in Welsh) is as picturesque as its English name suggests. On her first visit to Wales, NEWSWEEK’S Elisa Mala was charmed by the quaintness of the surroundings as well as the warmth of the locals who occupied them.

STROLL along the Mumbles, a walkway along Swansea Bay that passes through local shops, eateries and piers. In warmer months, the Swansea Bay Rider, a land-based train that’s kid- and adult-friendly, rolls along the path at a leisurely pace. The rides end as soon as September does, but they return for one night only on the eve of Halloween!

LEARN about the town's storied past and view the mummy Hor at the Swansea Museum, which displays many regional artifacts. Or partake of futuristic multimedia exhibits at the National Waterfront Museum, which pays homage to the country's nautical history. Its balcony offers a panoramic and unparalleled view of the adjacent marina.

INDULGE in concoctions like Tuscan Cassata and Strawberry Cookies and Cream at Joe's Ice Cream Parlour, a mainstay since 1922. Or try over 30 flavors of gelato and non-fussy Italian dishes at Verdi's Café. For seaside views that are as fresh as the fare, try to snag a table on the pier.

EXPLORE the intricacies of the well-preserved Oystermouth Castle, which was built in the 12th century and served as a residence for the reigning lords. Despite several sieges, remains of the nearby Swansea Castle are surprisingly intact.