TipSheet : Correspondent's Picks

Correspondents' Picks: Swansea, Wales

Newsweek — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 18:34:28 GMT

By Elisa Mala

Poet Dylan Thomas referred to his birthplace as an "ugly, lovely town," but with centuries of history showcased alongside cutting-edge architecture, this fishing village and resort town (called Abertawe in Welsh) is as picturesque as its English name suggests. On her first visit to Wales, NEWSWEEK’S Elisa Mala was charmed by the quaintness of the surroundings as well as the warmth of the locals who occupied them.

STROLL along the Mumbles, a walkway along Swansea Bay that passes through local shops, eateries and piers. In warmer months, the Swansea Bay Rider, a land-based train that’s kid- and adult-friendly, rolls along the path at a leisurely pace. The rides end as soon as September does, but they return for one night only on the eve of Halloween!

LEARN about the town's storied past and view the mummy Hor at the Swansea Museum, which displays many regional artifacts. Or partake of futuristic multimedia exhibits at the National Waterfront Museum, which pays homage to the country's nautical history. Its balcony offers a panoramic and unparalleled view of the adjacent marina.

INDULGE in concoctions like Tuscan Cassata and Strawberry Cookies and Cream at Joe's Ice Cream Parlour, a mainstay since 1922. Or try over 30 flavors of gelato and non-fussy Italian dishes at Verdi's Café. For seaside views that are as fresh as the fare, try to snag a table on the pier.

EXPLORE the intricacies of the well-preserved Oystermouth Castle, which was built in the 12th century and served as a residence for the reigning lords. Despite several sieges, remains of the nearby Swansea Castle are surprisingly intact.

STUDY the life and times of the country’s most famous poet at the Dylan Thomas Center, where murals and works are open to the public seven days a week.

HANG TEN at the Leisure Centre, Wales’ largest indoor water park featuring waterslides, a lazy river and indoor surfing.

Correspondent’s Picks: Austin, Texas

Newsweek — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:11:23 GMT

By Kristin Luna

A native of the American South, travel writer Kristin Luna got back to her roots during a recent trip to Austin, Texas. Some highlights:

STAY: Simply name drop that you’re staying at the sumptuous Driskill Hotel, and heads will turn. It is, without a doubt, the city’s most famed establishment and rightfully so. Located smack in the center of downtown, within walking distance to the State Capitol, it’s steeped in history and boasts the fanciest digs around. Rooms exude an old-fashioned charm with their oil paintings, antique furniture and delicate drapery, mixed with modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, DVD players, iPod docks, wireless Internet and Molton Brown bath products. Around the corner from the Driskill, the InterContinental Stephen F. Austin is another popular option with business travelers; like the rest of the brand, it affords the utmost comfort in beds and amenities, and also houses a chic second-floor bar with incomparable views of the Capitol.

If you prefer a stay-and-play vacation, Barton Springs Resort & Spa can fulfill all of those needs. With four golf courses, 11 lit tennis courts, a state-of-the-art gym and running track and plush grounds that span 4,000 acres, Barton Creek deserves its own zip code. Be sure and pamper yourself at the remarkable spa, which features unique treatments like a Mexican Chocolate Cayenne Scrub or a Hill Country Harvest Souffle, a full-body massage using warmed avocado pits and various other parts of the fruit for nourishment. Barton Creek is also perfect for families, with a great pool and deck and even 18 holes of mini-golf on site. A hotel that offers a more typical Austin feel is the quirky San Jose Hotel on South Congress; with a central courtyard, pool and bar, it attracts a younger clientele and those ready to mingle. Its bungalow-style rooms are also quite interesting with stucco walls, concrete floors and geometric windows that occupy an entire wall.

EAT: After splitting time between New York and San Francisco over the past few years—two cities known for their culinary assets—I’ve become quite the food snob. Prior to my trip, I had heard that Austin didn’t have much of a dining reputation, but was pleased to find that was far from the truth. Happy hour at Ranch 616 is a good introduction to the city: The restaurant and bar is now home to the “official drink of Austin”—the Fire in the Hole—as recently voted on by a panel of local judges. Appetizers like fried asparagus, frogs legs and crispy oysters with chipotle tartar are the perfect complement to a shot of Paula’s Orange Liquor, lime juice, cayenne and chili powder with a Lone Star beer for a chaser. From there, move on to Guero’s Taco Bar, which frequently draws the likes of Matthew McConaughey, pal Lance Armstrong and tennis superstar Andy Roddick, and is a favorite joint of the Clintons. South Congress Café serves a mean brunch with dishes like Southwestern-style eggs benedict and carrot cake French toast, and Sandra Bullock’s eatery, Bess Bistro, is popular for its yummy comfort food. For some tried-and-true Texas BBQ, opt for Stubb’s or Salt Lick. If you want fine dining, you’ll find your fanciest fare at Hudson’s on the Bend with its menu of quality game, including elk, Cornish hen, hare, wild boar, buffalo and quail. Those with a sweet tooth should grab a baked good at the Airstream trailer housing Hey Cupcake! or a cone at Texas chain Amy’s Ice Creams after dinner.

SHOP: Second Avenue’s row of boutiques will warm up your plastic, while South Congress Avenue can continue the credit card calisthenics at kitschy one-off finds, antique stores and vintage shops. If you care to be cliché, hit up Allen’s or Heritage for some authentic cowboy boots. Outlet aficionados won’t want to miss nearby San Marcos’ Prime Outlets, which make all other factory outlets pale in comparison, located just 30 miles south of the city on I-35. Not only does it house all the outlet regulars (J. Crew, Banana Republic, Coach, Nine West, Gap), but loads of designers (Michael Kors, Escada, Kate Spade, Catherine Malandrino, Gucci, Marc Jacobs) and home stores (Williams Sonoma, Pottery Barn, Crate and Barrel), too. It will take you hours–if not days–to cover the whole area.

VISIT: The Texas State Capitol sits front row and center in Austin’s downtown at the end of Congress Avenue. The tallest capitol building in the United States, it is, dare I say, more impressive than even the National Capitol. With one of the nation’s biggest university populations, the University of Texas’ campus is worth a leisurely stroll, if for no other reason than to gawk at all the burnt orange “hook ‘em horns” paraphernalia. The Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum may not initially sound intriguing, but the building is massive and beautifully designed and it’s chock-full of more history than you probably knew the state contained. Alamo Drafthouse – where you can grab a bite to eat while catching a flick – is a popular hangout for Austinites and now owns four locations around town. And a trip out to two city staples, BookPeople and the 80,000-square-foot Whole Foods flagship store (complete with 14 restaurants and cooking classes on-site), which are across-the-street-neighbors, isn’t to be missed.

Correspondents' Picks: Toulouse, France

Newsweek — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 16:10:59 GMT

By Amber Haq

Nestled in the sunny southwest of France, Toulouse sits astride the Garonne River and the 17th century Canal du Midi, midway between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The country's fourth-largest city, it is young and vibrant, home to three main universities and the European aerospace industry. It's a haven of creativity, and combines the Gallic charm of its rich history with the Latin warmth of its geography. Dubbed "La Ville Rose" (or "Pink City") for the dust-colored stones so prominent in its architecture, Toulouse is a city that will appeal to epicureans, who should savor its many delights slowly and by foot – for walking is a way of life here.

STROLL: Try the banks of the Garonne River for stunning views of Toulouse's historic monuments. Perhaps the most impressive of these is the 11th-century St. Sernin basilica. Allegedly the largest Romanesque church in Europe, it was consecrated in 1096 and features an eight-tier octagonal tower, five church naves and an upper cloister which forms a passageway around the impressive interior. The crypt contains relics of 128 saints, plus a thorn said to be from the Crown of Thorns – you'll have to ask the custodian permission to enter.

VIEW: Exquisite art is on display at the Fondation Bemberg, a private collection opened in 1995 and one of the city's most important museums. It offers an overview of five centuries of European art ranging from the Renaissance to the French Modern School. Paintings by Pierre Bonnard, Matisse, Pissarro and Monet grace the rooms of the 16th century Hôtel d'Azzézat which houses the collection. Contemporary art lovers should visit Les Abattoirs on the city's right bank – Toulouse's hippest crowds gather in this museum of modern and contemporary art, which once housed the municipal abattoir dating from 1831. The collection exhibits over 2,000 works by artists including Brassaï, Dubuffet and Picasso.

EAT: Toulousains take their gastronomy seriously. The city is home to a number of fine restaurants specializing in the rich, traditional southwestern French cuisine. For a hearty portion of the ubiquitous cassoulet, book a table on the terrace of Restaurant Emile – a local institution. For the sophisticated palate, the Michelin-starred Restaurant Michel Sarran offers an array of regional flavors, such as roast pigeon, Périgord truffles, oysters or foie gras de Canard de Gers (duck foie gras), presented with imagination and flair that is to be expected from one of France's master chefs. As for wine, head for Le Pere Louis – Toulouse's most convivial tavern dating back to 1889. Packed from apéritif hour, it offers a wide range of excellent wines, including Grenache Vieux (Au Pere Louis 45 rue des Tourneurs (00 33 5 61 21 33 45)).

SHOP: The city plays host to a hip and trendy shopping scene, but the most the most vibrant retail experience is the eccentric flea market at the bustling Place de Capitole, which is the city's main square. From vintage clothing to rare French pop albums from the 1960s, you'll meet some of the more colourful Toulousain stall holders, as you dig into their treasure chests.

DRINK: After a day of wandering the maze of cobblestoned lanes head towards a favourite Toulousain hot spot - bar brassere Le Bibent (5, place du Capitole). Sip the local speciality – a cooling sirop de violette (violet sherbet) admiring the sunlit glow of the stunning pink façades of the 18th-century municipal buildings around the square. It really is, la vie en rose.

Correspondents' Picks: Todos Santos, Mexico

Newsweek — Wed, 17 Sep 2008 14:42:09 GMT

By Clara Zabludowsky

Framed by mango trees, palm trees and pink and blue haciendas, this oasis town, with its array of galleries, restaurants and uncorrupted natural beauty, offers visitors a breathtaking haven away from Baja’s more touristy locales. In 2006, Todos Santos was named a “Pueblo Magico” or magical village by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism. After a brief sojourn there, the town’s undeniable charm will leave no doubt as to why.

SURF or otherwise enjoy the sea at Los Cerritos beach, where the swelling waves are home to world-class surfers. It's also a prime spot for whale watching in the winter months. If you want to try your luck at riding the waves, check out Pescadero Surf Camp. Their certified instructors should have you up on the board in no time.

DINE at Café Santa Fe. Owned by Italian émigré Ezio Colombo and his wife, it is located in front of the main plaza. One of the best Italian restaurants in Mexico, the combination of the unbelievably fresh seafood, the Colombo’s fantastic homegrown organic vegetables and a full bar make for an unforgettable meal. Don’t miss the stir-fried shrimp and octopus with arugula and lime (Calle Centenario #4). For those looking for an authentic Mexican meal, one can do no wrong at Los Adobes. Dining is done al fresco within the wonderful setting of the restaurant’s own botanical garden. The cuisine is top-notch and an excellent opportunity for those unfamiliar with Mexican food to give some of the country’s best dishes a try. The shrimp sautéed in garlic and chile guajillo with a touch of white wine are a must, as is the famous seafood soup, which is made with organic vegetables and the catch of the day. Wash it all down with agua de jamaica, water made from the hibiscus flower, unique to Mexico and incredibly refreshing.

STROLL along Calle Benito Juarez, the main street. Begin your walk at the famous Hotel California. Though urban legend claims it as the inspiration for The Eagles’ song of the same name, these rumours have been shot down by Eagles’ singer and guitarist Don Henley. This, however, has not stopped a yearly pilgrimage of Eagles’ fans who make their way to this charming boutique hotel, which does nothing to dispel these rumors by blaring the infamous song on the sidewalk outside.

SHOP the many art galleries that line the streets. Galeria Indigo features a large variety of local art, from oils and acrylics to handcrafted jewelry. Colores de Mexico Gallery is a family-owned affair featuring the extraordinary photography of Pat Gerhardt and her daughter Christiana Parsons. A California ex-pat, Gerhardt’s work showcases the cultural and geographic richness of the region.

DRINK a michelada, the refreshing combination of beer and lime juice served in a salt-rimmed glass, at La Copa wine bar – the perfect place to watch the sunset. If you are willing to brave something stronger, go for Gran Centenario Plata tequila and enjoy the buzzing night-time ambiance that the congregation of ex-pats brings. Too much tequila? Check into one of the luxury rooms of the Todos Santos Inn. They are well worth waking up in.

Correspondents' Picks: The Bronx, New York City

Newsweek — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 23:44:59 GMT

By Elisa Mala

The Bronx is the only New York City borough that isn’t situated on an island. But that’s not its only claim to fame – it boasts some of the city's most colorful and entertaining attractions. It's an easy subway ride from virtually anywhere in Manhattan, but on the first Wednesday of every month, there are even free trolley rides from midtown. While the borough is often overshadowed by its neighbor to the south (Manhattan), it's worth seeing up close. Take it from NEWSWEEK’s Elisa Mala, who lived just below the Bronx-Manhattan border for a good part of her life.

Ride the Skyfari at the Bronx Zoo, a cable car that soars over treetops, orangutans and more than 6,000 other furry friends at heights of up to 100 feet. Afraid of heights? Never fear – an internal train ride that’s appropriate for children and adults alike stays closer to the ground and covers quite a lot of it. Or try the narrated tram tour at the New York Botanical Garden, where riders can hop on or off as many times as they like to check out one of the city’s few waterfalls, a serene reflecting pool or numerous verdant gardens.

Stroll past the nautical museum, lighthouse, docks and mom-and-pop shops on City Island, an islet off the coast of Pelham Bay Park that is as picturesque as any North England port town. Settled by the English in 1685, it's steeped in centuries of nautical history and feels far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life, even though it’s only a few miles away from the skyscrapers.

Visit Yankee Stadium, the former home of Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig and the third-oldest stadium in Major League Baseball. The historic house of the Bronx Bombers, who have won more championships than any other team, will be torn down at the end of this season, when the Yankees move into a spiffy new home next door. One thing that will probably never change: the availability of Cracker Jack, a mixture of popcorn, peanuts and caramel that has been immortalized in the lyrics of the sport’s unofficial anthem, "Take Me Out to the Ballgame." In 2004, the stadium switched to Crunch ‘n Munch. Fans protested, and 16 days later, Cracker Jack was back.

Admire the eclectic collection of contemporary works at the Bronx Museum of Art, which champions the underdog by featuring pieces from artists from underrepresented populations and those whose life or work are directly connected to the region.

Swim in the Floating Pool Lady, a seven-lane public pool that sits atop a barge docked near Barretto Point Park. Or splash around on the borough's only public shore, Orchard Beach, which is impressively clean and becomes quite lively on the weekends. But don’t jump into the pools at Wave Hill Garden – they’re reserved for the waterlilies, which occupy only a small part of the 28 acres of the lush public space.

Correspondents’ Picks: Jávea, Spain

Newsweek — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 19:56:43 GMT

By Zach Kussin

First considered a home to Roman fishermen in the 2nd century BC, Jávea has since evolved from a small port town to one of Europe’s most popular Mediterranean destinations. Today, visitors can learn about Jávea’s vivid history while enjoying a variety of fun summer activities, especially at the many beaches that dot Spain's Costa Blanca—known to be one of the country's most beautiful coastlines. Located an hour’s drive from downtown Valencia, Jávea gives tourists the opportunity to simultaneously experience traditional Spanish life and southern Europe’s most active outdoor culture.

EXPLORE El Pueblo, Jávea’s old quarter. Previously enclosed by a formidable stonewall to protect Jávea’s inhabitants from troops of marauding pirates, El Pueblo is now open to visitors from all lands…as long as they don’t thieve Jávea’s treasured collection of gold jewelry and precious gems from past centuries on display at the Soler Blasco historical museum. All of El Pueblo’s narrow and winding streets lead you to the Church of Sant Bartolomé. Dating back to the 14th century, this impressive structure made of tosca stone hewn from Jávea’s rocky shores forms the geographic, spiritual and cultural center of Jávea. Besides holding Sunday mass, communions, conformations and festivals honoring the saints, a variety of outdoor concerts, traditional Valencian danzas and plays take place in the church’s plaza for all of Jávea’s residents to enjoy.

CLIMB the Montgó Massif. Standing at 753 meters high, a hike up Montgó’s steep façade gives breathtaking views of Jávea’s entire shoreline, its neighboring towns, Denia and Jesús Pobre, and even the Balearic island of Ibiza on clear days. A variety of guided tours explaining Montgó’s diverse species of flora or exploring its many caverns are also available.

EAT near the port, a lively neighborhood that has a number of bars and restaurants that all serve Valencian delicacies at reasonable prices. The money-conscious traveler can taste bar tapas of ensalada rusa, a spicy potato salad; pa amb allioli, bread served with a garlic mayonnaise dipping sauce; or chorizo for less than 10 Euros. Visitors should also be sure to try a sip of sweet horchata, a tiger nut milk. For an evening out, however, try El Pósito restaurant. Here, such treats as fresh, saffron-rich seafood paella, jamón Serrano with melon and prawns in Armanac are cooked to perfection and served to you as you sit feet from the port’s pebble beach (96 579 3063).

SIESTA at La Sella spa, located inside the Marriott hotel. Inspired by both the Roman and Oriental baths, La Sella spa offers a pleasant escape from the summer heat with its whirlpools, massage sessions, therapeutic mud baths and tropical showers. The siesta hours, typically from 2:00-5:00 p.m., are also well spent at any one of the chiringuitos that line La Avenida del Mediterráneo. These beachside huts are oases for visitors trying to escape the summer’s high temperatures. Relaxation is a certainty if you purchase a cold beverage, sit atop their comfortable sofas and hammocks and admire the undisturbed view of the blue Mediterranean water in front of you.

SUNBATHE in the late afternoon Mediterranean sun at La Granadella, Jávea’s best kept secret. Located far off the beaten, touristy path, in between two of Jávea’s southernmost capes, La Granadella is a refuge for those who seek natural beaches. Visitors have the choice of lying atop La Granadella’s snow-white blanket of sand or enjoying the cool waters of its rocky tosca grottos located close by.

DANCE at El Arenal, Jávea’s main beach, the best spot for nighttime entertainment. El Arenal’s finest nightclubs, such as Octopus and Champagne, offer live music played by local groups and DJs, inexpensive beverages and finger foods and stay open until the very early hours of the morning.

Correspondents' Picks: Atlanta, Georgia

Newsweek — Fri, 08 Aug 2008 19:57:58 GMT

By Elisa Mala

The city that dubs itself "Hotlanta" has far more to offer than gimmicky sobriquets. Long before hosting the 1996 Summer Olympics, A-town has been setting global records, so eat well and drink heartily, because traversing a town that satisfies all five senses requires more energy than running a marathon.

Born and bred in the Big Apple, NEWSWEEK'S Elisa Mala had never been south of D.C. until this spring. But Southerners were so hospitable that she soon found herself tossing out the occasional "y'all."

EAT at the world's largest drive-in, the original location of The Varsity diner (thevarsity.com). Before taking any order, servers bellow "What'll ya have?" Answer back with the eatery's established lingo: Order a "glorified steak" (burger with mayo, lettuce and tomato), a "ring one" (one order of onion rings) or a "bag of rags" (potato chips). Have to eat and run? Then "walk a dog" and take that frank to go. Southern comfort food like Brunswick Stew, creamy grits and mouthwatering Pecan Pie are on offer at Food 101 (food101atlanta.com).

For modern takes on classic Asian dishes, try Spice Market (jean-georges.com), the first Atlanta outpost from three-Michelin star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, or Straits Atlanta (straitsrestaurants.com), the brainchild of hairstylist-***-chef Chris Yeo and Grammy winner Ludacris. For a white-cloth experience, Joël (joelrestaurant.com) offers some of the most indulgent French fare in town and Bacchanalia (starprovisions.com) lives up to its name with organic dishes that evolve with the seasons.

DRINK at Front Page News (frontpagenewsrestaurant.com), which with two stories, a spacious patio and a lively crowd, is fit to print. The Twisted Taco draws a more laid-back crowd, which matches its charmingly dive-y environs (twistedtaco.com). For an uplifting experience (literally), try the rooftop bar at the Glenn Hotel (glennhotel.com), where the views are as fresh as the drinks.

SEE the entire city through floor-to-ceiling windows at the rotating Sun Dial Restaurant, located on the 73rd floor of the Western Hemisphere's tallest hotel, the Westin Peachtree Plaza. Watch yourself on TV or observe broadcasters in action during the CNN Center Studio Tour (cnn.com/studiotour), which requires an eight-story ascent via the world's tallest freestanding escalator. For a blast from the past, check out the Louvre Atlanta display at the High Museum of Art (high.org) which features a rotating collection from the venerable French institution.

SMELL victory at the Olympic Centennial Garden (centennialpark.com), the site of the 1996 summer Games. The manicured lawns, fountains and playgrounds invite athletes of all ages for a stroll or a run. Fragrant flowers abound at Atlanta Botanical Garden (atlantabotanicalgarden.org), which features many rare plants and the largest orchid collection in the country.

HEAR Martin Luther King's "I have a dream" speech at The King Center (thekingcenter.org), which chronicles the life and times of the human rights activist. Listen to the latest hits at Opera nightclub (operaatlanta.com), which draws some of the biggest musical acts in the world (like Tiesto, the globally-renowned DJ).

TASTE Krest Ginger Ale from Mozambique, Delaware Punch from Honduras, Melon Fanta from Israel and about 60 other beverages at the Taste It! lounge in the World of Coca-Cola (wocatlanta.com)

TOUCH stingrays, bonnethead sharks and anemones at the touch pools of the Georgia Aquarium, the world's largest. Sleep over with the fishes ($100; dates vary) or swim and dive with Earth's most gargantuan ones, whale sharks ($195 and up) (georgiaaquarium.org). Those who are a bit less fish-friendly can observe jellyfish, starfish seahorses and hundreds of other creatures from a safe distance.

Correspondents' Picks: Oaxaca City, Mexico

Newsweek — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:02:03 GMT

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By Sarah Garland

Just two years ago, the restaurants and shops in this colonial Mexican city were closed off to outsiders after protesters and soldiers briefly turned it into a battleground. Now, peace has returned, and so have the tourists.

One of the most diverse places in Mexico, the city and its surroundings are a treasure trove of indigenous crafts and a destination for history buffs seeking a firsthand encounter with ancient civilizations. But one of the main reasons to go is the food.

VISIT the capital of the "cloud people" -- the ruins of Monte Albán on a mountain over the city. Look down over the valley from atop pyramids and explore fields where the ancient city’s inhabitants once played a mystical ball game (monte-alban.com).

EAT mole, the rich chocolate and chili sauce that is the region's signature dish, in the tiny dining room of Maria Bonita (52-951-516-7233). Buy some at the Benito Juarez Market to take home.

SHOP for whimsical wooden sculptures known as alebrijes that are inspired by the artists' dreams, and black clay pottery from nearby villages along Alcalá, a pedestrian street lined with galleries and cafés.

SAMPLE delicate shaved ice in flavors like rose, tequila and burnt milk sold by vendors in the shady plaza next to one of the city's many stunning churches, La Soledad.

LISTEN to live music and sip smoky shots of mezcal, liquor made from cactus, at outdoor cafés in the city's main plaza, the Zócalo, or grab a table in the balcony of El Asador Vasco overlooking the scene (asadorvasco.com).

COOK some of the Oaxaca’s famous dishes yourself at one of several new cooking schools that have sprouted up around the city. At La Casa de los Sabores, the chef will share family recipes handed down for generations (laolla.com.mx). At the Casa Sagrada in the village of Teotitlan del Valle, on the outskirts of the city, take a cooking lesson and then learn how to distill mezcal to wash down the meal (casasagrada.com).

EXPLORE the villages around the city, each with a unique craft to offer. Visit the town of belts, Santo Tomás Jalieza, or buy brightly dyed wool rugs from artisans in Teotitlan (teotitlan.com).

CELEBRATE with the locals during one of several annual festivals that transform the city into one big party. The Guelaguetza brings traditional dancers from around the state to perform during July. Elaborate altars decorated with flowers and filled with food line city streets in preparation for the Day of the Dead on November 2. At Christmastime, see displays of small sculptures carved out of radishes on the Noche de los Rábanos, December 23 (oaxacainfo.com).

SEE the works of contemporary Oaxacan artists in an airy colonial building downtown (museomaco.com). An eclectic collection of pre-colonial art from around the country gathered by Mexican artist Rufino Tamayo is housed in another museum nearby.

STAY at the Hotel Las Golondrinas, a quiet retreat in a colonial style building that makes the bustle of the lively city outside seem miles away. The rooms open into a courtyard bursting with flowers, and the massage center beckons those exhausted after a long day of eating (hotellasgolondrinas.com.mx).

RELAX in the hands of indigenous healers at a traditional spa known as a temazcal, where treatments include an herb-infused sauna (lasbugambilias.com/temazcal.html).

TASTE chapulines, the crunchy roasted grasshoppers that legend says will bring tourists back to Oaxaca for a second visit. They can be found at stands in the central market, at the bottom of mezcal shot glasses in downtown cantinas and even in upscale restaurants like El Refectorio in the Camino Real Oaxaca hotel (caminoreal.com).

Correspondents' Picks: Cozumel, Mexico

Newsweek — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 17:58:34 GMT

By Elisa Mala

Nineteen kilometers off the coast of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, Cozumel offers sundry excursions above and below the surface. Home to more than 40 Mayan ruins, ecological parks and reefs that charmed Jacques Cousteau, this one-town island is anything but sleepy. Among the most biodiverse on the planet, it teems with countless wildlife species and lots of lively locals. With a love of the Caribbean and a surname that means "bad" in Spanish, NEWSWEEK's Elisa Mala was thrilled to traverse both the wet and dry parts of the island.

Explore the cerulean waters of Chankanaab National Park ($16 per adult and $8 per child, cozumelparks.com). The name of this sprawling nature reserve derives from Mayan: "Chan" means "small" and "Kanaab" means "sea or ocean." It lives up to its name: Befriend colorful fish, urchins, crabs and submerged statues of Jesus and Mary without having to venture far from the shoreline. With a good eye, it's possible to spot barracudas, eels and small octopuses. Swimming with dolphins is also a possibility, though special arrangements need to be made. On land, iguanas, small lizards and birds find a home within the towering trees that crop up all over the lush, manicured gardens. Divers can explore the Felipe Xicotencatl shipwreck, which is located just offshore, before heading into deeper waters.

Though turtles, crocodiles and coral reefs live at Punta Sur ($10 per person; cozumelparks.com), the 1,000 hectares ecological reserve is an ideal playground for landlubbers. A whitewashed lighthouse greets visitors at the entrance and contains a museum dedicated to navigation -- it profiles buccaneers, explorers, Mayans and lighthouse keepers. Unless an hours-long hike in high heat is the intended goal, plan to bring a car or use the internal transportation system to coast through the park's five ecosystems, which include dunes and mangroves. A 40-minute catamaran ride along Columbia Sur lagoon is available for an extra $3.

Climb the steps of the San Gervasio ruins (cozumelparks.com), which served as the worshiping grounds of Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility. Its name stems from a nearby cattle ranch founded by Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858. Even though the stone structures are replete with ancient etchings, no one is quite sure of what the Mayans called it.

Stroll through San Miguel de Cozumel, the island's sole town, to mingle with locals and get a true sense of life. Near the piers and shops along the main road, Avenida Rafael Melgar, the four-room Museo de la Isla de Cozumel provides a thorough account of the region's history and biodiversity (52-987-872-1475).

Dance if you dare at All Sports Bar (52-987-869-2246), which doubles as a salsa club after 10 p.m. Thursdays through Saturdays. On Sundays around sunset, locals gather in the center of town to mingle and sashay the night away.

Relax in seclusion under palm trees on the white-sand beaches of Isla de Pasión, a private islet off the coast of Cozumel that is accessible by a 10-minute boat ride (isla-pasion.com). The stunning scenery of this little-explored hideaway has served as the backdrop for many a wedding, but even the most hardened soul can find something to love.

Correspondents' Picks: Bangkok, Thailand

Newsweek — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 17:00:31 GMT

By Elisa Mala

With hot climes and the prevailing philosophy of maintaining “cool hearts” (jai yen), Thailand is rife with contradictions. Nowhere is this more evident than in Bangkok, the nation’s capital and most populated city, a seemingly endless sprawl that is at once chaotic and calm. Ultra-modern commercial complexes overshadow some of the oldest Buddhist temples in the world, extravagant dance performances are as plentiful as gory kickboxing matches, sports cars compete with rickshaws for road space, and millionaires live blocks away from those who occasionally lack running water. Born and bred in Manhattan, NEWSWEEK’s Elisa Mala grew up speaking Thai, which kept her close to the culture from halfway around the world. Here are the sites and activities that capture her imagination on trips there.

VISIT the 150-foot-long reclining Buddha at Wat Pho (www.watpho.com) (near the river along Maharat Road, about 2/3 of a mile south of the Grand Palace). Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple also runs the city’s most respected Thai massage school, the Traditional Medical Pracitioners Association Center, so weary wayfarers can rest with a rubdown. An emerald Buddha sits at Wat Phra Kaew, one of Thailand’s grandest worshipping grounds. No surprise that it’s ornate – located on the grounds of the Grand Palace, it shares a home with the king. Dressing like royalty is hardly a requirement, but knees and elbows should be covered, and shoes removed before entering holy sites.

DINE al fresco at local favorite Waterside (waterside-bkk.com) (13/16 Praditmanootham Road), where pla tod mun (fried fishcakes) are as fresh as the river views and coconut milk can be sipped straight from the source. Arrive either very early or very late, or with a reservation, as tables fill up with posh locals. For a more pedestrian feast, epicureans who are brave of heart – and strong of stomach – can sample chicken satay, noodles and other delights at the many vendors alongside the roads.

SHOP the enormous selection of fresh flowers, vegetables and chilies at Pak Khlong Market (on Chakrapratch Road near the Memorial Bridge), a street bazaar that never closes. Dozens of varieties of fried shrimp, pork rinds and herbs galore make Chinatown a one-stop shop for authentic delicacies and natural remedies. Serious shoppers can make a day (or a week) out of exploring department stores and top-shelf boutiques like TopShop in Central World (www.centralworld.co.th), the largest complex in Southeast Asia. The three-story B&S there is the largest bookstore in the country, while SuperSports is home to a 30-meter shoe wall.

RIDE the ferry along the Chao Phraya River, and relive the days when Bangkok was canal-laden and called the Venice of the East. The water channels have since been filled, so traffic now flows along oft-congested throughways and side streets, which are serpentine enough to throw even lifelong natives for a loop. Navigating the roads in a three-wheeled vehicle known as the tuk-tuk is an experience not to be missed, but avoiding traffic altogether is as simple as hopping on the skytrain.

ADMIRE the architecture downtown, the heart of the bustling business district. The whimsical and rainbow-colored Baiyoke Towers (02656-3500) are the tallest in the country. A short elevator ride leads to unparalleled views from the deck atop the 84th floor. For a visual feast from below, nearby loom the Robot Building, which houses the Bangkok headquarters of the United Overseas Bank, and the three towers of the Elephant Building. The gray edifice goes for gusto with “tusks” and “eyes,” and is a larger-than-life version of the national mascot. There are no observation decks or activities within, but design afficionados might find inspiration among these ingenious structures.

SEE handlers milk venom from vipers and cobras at the Queen Saowapha Memorial Institute (1871 Rama IV Road; 02252-0161), a snake farm and treatment facility that turns the toxic serum into anti-venom. It’s not just for show: The on-site clinic also treats snake bites and provides inoculations for common regional ailments like cholera and dysentery.

HAIL to the king by wearing yellow, a symbol of devotion to King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who ascended the throne on June 9, 1946 and is the world’s longest-reigning monarch. Outpacing the British by far, even politically apathetic Thais are deeply respectful of the royal family – the king’s and queen’s birthdays are national holidays. Since June 9, 2006, the 60th Anniversary of the beloved king’s rule, Thais across the nation have worn lemon-hued shirts every Monday. The sartorially-savvy monarch also started a pink craze in November 2007 when he left the hospital wearing a blazer with a rosy tint.

Correspondents' Picks: Brooklyn

Newsweek — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 14:30:56 GMT

DUMBO, Brooklyn Heights and Williamsburg, Brooklyn

By Zach Kussin

Not a Brooklyn native, but certainly a Brooklyn admirer, Zach Kussin has enjoyed his time exploring the DUMBO, Brooklyn Heights, and Williamsburg neighborhoods. Having spent time living, learning and working in Manhattan, he was glad to discover the nice change of pace these three areas offer. They are home to some of New York's finest restaurants, art galleries and neighborhood flair. Without the hectic crush of Manhattan in the background, visitors can easily spend their Brooklyn visits at peace.

Stroll through Brooklyn Bridge Park, an urban oasis that offers a pleasant escape from the traffic as well as a variety of outdoor events, including Thursday-night films on a giant silver screen. This summer, visitors can also enjoy The New York City Waterfalls, a series of art installations created by the internationally acclaimed artist Olafur Eliasson. The 90 to 120-foot tall waterfalls located at the Brooklyn anchorage of the Brooklyn Bridge, at the Brooklyn piers, at the shore of Governor's Island and at Pier 35 in Manhattan's Lower East Side will all be easily visible from Brooklyn Bridge Park's vantage point beginning on June 26.

Visit the Henry Gregg Gallery located in DUMBO, home to a blooming art scene, for a sampling of visionary works by some of today's internationally acclaimed artists and photographers, such as Mark Blanchette, Juan Sanchez-Juarez and Sara Conca whose works have previously been on exhibition. Local photographers have the opportunity to show their works in "Brooklyn: Back in the Day," the current exhibit that portrays the change and growth of Brooklyn and its neighborhoods from the '70s up through the '90s(henrygregggallery.com).

Unwind at The Wine Bar, located where DUMBO meets Brooklyn Heights. Here, wine enthusiasts can choose from a wide selection of the world's best red, rosé, white, sparkling and dessert wines by the glass or bottle. Fortunately, The Wine Bar caters to a wide variety of tastes. Cocktail lovers find their niche here with summery drinks like mint juleps and pomegranate twists available on the cocktails menu. Customers need not drink on empty stomachs with such food items as the charchuterie plate, oysters on a half shell and deep fried cheesecake on the appetizers and desserts menu (50 Henry Street).

For a younger scene, stop by Williamsburg's Anytime. Known for having the best happy hour specials in Brooklyn, bar patrons can buy cans of Pabst Blue Ribbon beer for $1, bottles of Corona for $4, and assorted finger food platters for under $10. The best part is Anytime's happy hour continues until 5:00 a.m., offering partygoers the chance to drink cheaply before stopping by other bars and clubs, and also the chance to get inexpensive late-night snacks before they head home to sleep (93 N. 6th Street).

Shop at Zoë, a hip boutique sandwiched between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges, where you will find a wide array of upscale designer items-everything from Tom Ford sunglasses to Diane Von Furstenberg evening dresses. Serving fashion-conscious teens and adults, Zoë offers all you need to blend into Brooklyn's most trendy neighborhoods (shopzoeonline.com).

Looking for less expensive fashions? Try Williamsburg's Beacon's Closet, one of Brooklyn's leading outlets for vintage shopping. Stone-washed jeans, weathered leather jackets, fanny packs and torn Misfits t-shirts all come at a reasonable price to the shopper interested in looking like a true Williamsburg hipster for less than $25 (www.beaconscloset.com).

Enjoy a day or nighttime walk along the Brooklyn Heights promenade. A favorite among locals, this riverside walkway gives spectacular views of the mighty Statue of Liberty, Manhattan's southern tip and also passes by many of Brooklyn Heights' charming brownstones, rowhouses and mansions. End your stroll and satisfy your sweet tooth with a cone of rich, all natural ice cream from the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, located in an old fireboat house on top of the rebuilt Fulton Ferry pier. Any one of the refreshingly cool flavors offered is sure to keep you well protected against the summer heat (1 Water Street).

Striving for perfection in preparing and serving the finest foods since 1977, The River Café seeks to attract customers with the finest palates. Here, customers can dine on lemon pepper hollandaise-glazed oysters, tender fallow loin venison and goat-cheese cheesecake. Located in one of Brooklyn's most beautiful settings-atop a floating barge just off the Brooklyn waterfront-this restaurant offers panoramic views of the Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan's skyscraping financial district. (www.rivercafe.com)

Correspondents' Picks: San Francisco, Calif.

Newsweek — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 22:38:15 GMT

By Kristin Luna

A recent transplant from New York City, Bay Area-based travel writer Kristin Luna is enjoying getting to know her new home through an ongoing culinary and culture tour of what she considers to be America’s greatest city. Read her top finds thus far.

STAY: With the InterContinental’s (Tel. 888-811-4273; www.intercontinentalsanfrancisco.com) prime position directly across the street from the Moscone Center, which plays host to many a global convention, you couldn’t ask for better convenience. Situated just south of Market Square and Union Square, the majority of San Francisco’s most desirable bits are right at your doorstep. If you prefer a more personalized, bed-and-breakfast-type stay, but don’t want t to sacrifice location, the downtown eco-chic Orchard Garden Hotel (Tel. 415-399-9807; www.theorchardgardenhotel.com) in the Financial District, is the perfect option. California’s first LEED-certified hotel and the third of its kind in the nation, the Orchard Garden’s light and airy rooms sport a cheery color scheme of pale yellow and, what else, but green (seafoam, that is). Think: Martha Stewart, only much trendier (and lacking shackles). The lobby restaurant, Roots (Tel. 415-659-0349; www.therootsrestaurant.com), has such an inventive and decadent menu that you needn’t even leave the hotel during your stay. Other popular lodging options are the Four Seasons (Tel. 415-633-3000; www.fourseasons.com/sanfrancisco) and the Mandarin Oriental (Tel. 415-276-9888; www.mandarinoriental.com).

EAT: On par with New York in terms of American culinary excellence, you won’t be hard-pressed for quality dining in the Bay Area. The edgy Incanto (Tel. 415-641-4500; www.incanto.biz) in Noe Valley has made waves for its daring use of food not typically utilized in such gourmet meals (e.g. green peaches, acorns). In keeping with San Francisco’s environment-friendly approach to everything, the Italian eatery has a “waste not, want not” sort of philosophy and was one of the original restaurants to offer a head-to-heel menu. SoMa (South of Market) houses several hip dining joints in its industrial spaces, like Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant (Tel. 415-777-4200; www.sf-local.com) and Oola (Tel. 415-995-2061; www.oola-sf.com). Nearby Coco 500 (Tel. 415-543-2222; www.coco500.com) is the perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks and appetizers; the cocktail list is creative, and everything on the menu - particularly the mushroom flatbread - is delicious. In the southern part of the city, Mission institution Foreign Cinema (Tel. 415-648-7600; www.foreigncinema.com) is one of the city’s most beloved eating establishments, not only screening films (as its name suggests), but serving fantastic French fare, as well.

DRINK: Who doesn’t like an unmarked bar with the utmost air of exclusivity? To be admitted to the central Bourbon & Branch (Tel. 415-673-1921; www.bourbonandbranch.com), call in advance, book a table, and obtain a password that must be covertly whispered to the hostess upon admittance. The novel-size menu of sophisticated drinks paired with the feeling that you should be sitting in the back library - accessed via secret bookcase passageway, naturally - puffing cigars in a tweed jacket while sipping scotch (on the rocks) is priceless. Just be sure and abide by the “house rules.” Nearby Swig (Tel. 415-931-7292; www.swigbar.com) is a little more low key, with its soaring ceilings, dark atmosphere and crackling fireplace. If you’re easily lured in by promises of kitsch or a Disneyland-like theme, hit up Tonga Room (Tel. 415-772-5278), located in the Fairmont Hotel and open since 1945, or Bigfoot Lodge (Tel. 415-440-2355; www.bigfootlodge.com) with its entire drink list and décor devoted to the legendary Sasquatch. Russian Hill’s Bar Johnny (Tel. 415-268-0140; www.barjohnny.com) is a more local establishment with a Cheers-like quality and an extremely charismatic owner of the same name who’s usually on hand to chat with those milling about. Younger sister of New York’s TriBeCa property, champagne bar Bubble Lounge (Tel. 415-434-4204; sanfrancisco.bubblelounge.com) is a hit on Tuesday through Saturday - the nights doors are open to boozers far and wide - particularly on the last Wednesday of every month, when it holds its popular burlesque show. One of the city’s newest hotspots is beer house Monk’s Kettle (Tel. 415-865-9523; www.monkskettle.com) in the artsy Mission, offering 24 brews on tap. Should you find Monk too overbearingly crowded - if you don’t arrive before the happy hour crowd, you’ll often incur a lengthy wait for a table (and the bar takes no reservations) - wander down the bar-packed 16th Street and find something else to suit your taste buds.

DAY TRIPS: Northern California is not lacking in diversity: Perhaps San Francisco’s greatest draw is its proximity to a plethora of things to do from sipping wine in some of the world’s most famed vineyards to scaling peaks with sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. From Wine Country to Stinson Beach and nearby Mt. Tamalpais, the Bay Area is a hotbed of activity. To the direct north is Sausalito and Marin County, home to boats, beaches and trails (oh my!) galore. Less than two hours south by car is Monterey Bay and Carmel-by-the-Sea, charming towns with active waterfronts. Most visitors aim directly for Wine Country as soon as they hightail it out of San Francisco, but instead of laying your head to sleep in Napa Proper, pick a place in one of the Valley’s more endearing towns, like Yountville, which boasts the world-renowned (albeit impossible to book a table) French Laundry (Tel. 707-944-2380; www.frenchlaundry.com) and the stunning, sprawling estate Villagio Inn (Tel. 707-944-8877; www.villagio.com) that just welcomed the addition of a 13,000-square-foot spa. Or head to nearby Aspen-like St. Helena, which offers rustic, yet luxe accommodation like Harvest Inn (Tel. 800-950-8466, www.harvestinn.com), and enjoy crackling fireplaces and well-manicured gardens among a serene backdrop.

Correspondents' Picks: Mendoza, Argentina

Newsweek — Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:38:41 GMT

By Kate Tedesco

NEWSWEEK's Kate Tedesco has been covering Latin America on various fronts for more than a decade. She spent a chunk of a recent trip to Argentina exploring the dynamic wine scene, and its corresponding culinary and design boom, in the city of Mendoza, which is fast developing an international reputation as the “New Napa.”

Mendoza is nestled in the shadow of Acongagua, South America’s tallest peak, and has some of the highest vineyards in the world, so in addition to tasting world-class wine visitors can also take in some stunning scenery. The desert-like climate and rocky soil don’t necessarily make for easy agriculture, but area vineyards are irrigated by a pre-colonial canal system that channels melting snow from the surrounding Andes, and the challenging growing conditions contribute to the depth and complexity of the region’s wines. Malbec, Argentina’s signature red grape, thrives under Mendoza’s nearly-constant and highly-concentrated sunshine, but there are also a number of excellent local Cabernets and Merlots, and some younger vineyards are beginning to diversify into edgier varietals like Shiraz and Bornada.

Taste: Start with a swing by the Vines of Mendoza, South America’s first regional tasting room (www.vinesofmendoza.com). Its cozy courtyard garden serves as a gathering spot for enthusiasts of all stripes, and the knowledgeable staff guide visitors through flights of boutique local labels, many of which are not available abroad (and all of which can be purchased and shipped back home at minimal cost through their Acequia Wine Club).

The Vines also serves as a comprehensive concierge, and will help tailor itineraries and tours—an important service, since many wineries are located off the beaten path, about an hour’s drive outside the city, and require reservations in advance. O Fournier (www.ofournier.com) is a bit of a trek, but worth it for the winery’s sleek, almost space-age design, offset by a sweeping snow-capped backdrop. The post-modern theme continues inside as automatic sliding doors dramatically beckon visitors to enter the cavernous, steel-beamed wine cellar, which also doubles as a contemporary art gallery. A tasting at La Azul (www.bodegalaazul.com) is by no means grand, but at this informal boutique winery—which handpicks just a fraction of each year’s harvest to produce extremely small quantities of extremely fine wine—straight-from-the-barrel never tasted so good. Achaval-Ferrer (www.achaval-ferrer.com) is a newer winery, passionately helmed by a former national business executive and Stanford MBA, who has in just a decade already unveiled two of the world’s highest rated Malbecs. And for a truly authentic tasting experience, go straight to the suburban home of Carmelo Patti (0261-498-1379). A modern Mendoza legend, for more than three decades Patti has been producing top-quality Cabernet and Espumante (sparkling wine) with antiquated equipment, directly from his family’s garage.

Eating: Many wineries offer formal four-course lunch pairings in rather spectacular settings, like the sun-soaked dining room at Bodega Septima (www.bodegaseptima.com), or the lush garden café at Ruca Malen (www.bodegarucamalen.com). Almacen del Sur (www.almacendelsur.com) does not make wine, but this renowned lunch spot on a family farm also functions as an artisanal delicatessen, and produces instead its own line of gourmet spreads, chutneys and jams.

Dinner in Mendoza often doesn’t get underway until after 10:00 pm, so if your stomach has not adjusted to local time, stop by the outdoor cafe next to the retail chain Winery (www.winery.com.ar) for an early evening snack of tapas with a glass of espumante. But when the dinner hour arrives, don’t be afraid to stray from steak and try some other dishes made with locally-raised meat, especially traditional specialties like Chivito (young goat). At Azafrán (www.bve.com.ar), diners can visit the restaurant’s on-site wine cellar to select their own bottles to pair with some of the city’s most creative contemporary cuisine, like a succulent pork tenderloin glazed with pomegranate sauce. La Sal (www.lasalrestaurante.com) offers a more intimate, artsy setting, with a seasonal menu and live music. But if you insist on beef and nothing but, locals swear by Don Mario (www.donmario.com.ar) as having the best cut in town, and the menu more than trumps the restaurant’s modest décor.

Stroll: The center of Mendoza is easily navigable on foot, and the best time to be seen in its parks and plazas is right before sunset, when the city begins to come alive after a long afternoon siesta. The Plaza Espana is especially beautiful for its intricate tile work, and the public gardens in the Parque San Martin are impressively lush considering the city’s dry air. A walk down Avenida Sarmiento presents a number of shopping distractions. Sol & Vino (Sarmiento 664) carries a fine assortment of quality leather products, gaucho-inspired gear and Asado carving knives: but if you buy one, just make sure not to store it in your carry-on. And if you eventually tire of wine, peruse the bars along Calle Aristides Villanueva for viable beverage alternatives. Antares (www.cervezaantares.com) specializes in microbrews and—despite the long-standing national rivalry with neighboring Chile—any bartender worth his salt working along the block can still whip up a fine Pisco Sour.

Correspondents' Picks: Taipei, Taiwan

Barrett Sheridan — Mon, 19 May 2008 17:48:20 GMT

By Lauren Mack

Some 90 minutes by plane from Hong Kong, Taiwan’s capital boasts scenic mountains, the world’s tallest building and delicious food. With a recent hotel construction boom and a new president-elect who plans to relax travel restrictions on mainland travelers, the island has blossomed into a major tourism destination. NEWSWEEK’s Lauren Mack shares her favorite places to eat, drink, explore and relax.

EAT at Din Tai Fung. While they are famous for Shanghainese-style dumplings, this restaurant is an institution in Taipei. With three restaurants in Taipei and locations in nine countries, the original on Xinyi Road has a steady line out front. Try their famous xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and traditional chicken soup (194 Xinyi Road, Section 2, Da-an district, 2321-8928, www.dintaifung.com.tw). Head to Tainan Tan Tsu Mian, which is famous for its noodles - some of the most expensive in Taipei (31 Huaxi Street, Wanhua district, 2308-1123).

You haven’t fully experienced Taiwan unless you’ve eaten at one of its night markets. Take a stroll through Shilin Night Market, Taipei’s largest and rowdiest night market. Its maze of food stalls sell Taiwanese delicacies like azaijian (oyster pancakes), chou dofu (stinky tofu) and cua bing (shaved ice with fruit) which are all worth a try. Carnival games, people watching and vendors hawking everything from clothes to souvenirs round out the experience (60 Jihe Road, Shilin district).

DRINK at Post 49 Bar & Grill. Once home to the US Naval Fleet Reserve Association and later Post 49 of the American Legion, Post 49 Bar & Grill is a long-beloved watering hole in Taipei’s Tianmu area. The complex includes a restaurant and bar serving western fare and micro-brewed German beer and karaoke lounge (No. 11, Lane 35, Zhongshan North Road, Section 6, Shilin district, 2835-6491, www.posthome1.com). For live jazz, head to Brown Sugar Jazz Club and Restaurant. Local and international musicians perform Latin, fusion, Dixieland and funk nightly (101 Songren Road, Xinyi district, 8780-1110, www.brownsugar.com.tw).

EXPLORE the National Palace Museum, home to one of the world's largest collections of Chinese art, with more than 600,000 artifacts including ceramics, jade, paintings, calligraphy, books and documents. Much of the collection-including the famous carved jadeite cabbage-was secretly shipped in crates to Taiwan before the Nationalists fled from mainland China in 1949 (221 Zhishan Road, Shilin district, Section 2, 2881-2021, www.npm.gov.tw, Tickets NT$160).

Stop by National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall (formerly called Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall), a white marble hall with a large statue of the former general and leader of the Republic of China. Check out the museum that showcases, among other things, Chiang’s bulletproof Cadillac (21 Zhongshan Nan Lu, Zhongzheng district, 2343-1100, www.cksmh.gov.tw). While you’re paying homage to famous historical figures, hop on the subway and visit the National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and pay your respects to the ‘father of modern China’ (505 Renai Road, Section 4, 2758-8008, www.yatsen.gov.tw).

Go to the top of Taipei 101, currently the world's tallest building. At 508 meters and 101 stories, it also boasts the world's fastest elevators, which take only 37 seconds to get from bottom to top. Designed to look like a bamboo stalk, there is an indoor observatory on the 89th floor and an outdoor observatory on the 91st floor. The building also holds the record for having the world’s largest and heaviest exposed wind damper which dangles from the 87th to 92nd floors. There’s also a mall in the bottom of the building (7 Xinyi Road, Xinyi district, Section 5, 8101-8899, taipei-101.com.tw, Tickets NT$400/adult, NT$370/child).

BUY souvenirs at the Taiwan Handicraft Promotion Center, a one-stop, government-run shop with reasonably priced porcelain, jade, jewelry, clothes and bric a brac (1 Xu Zhou Road, Zhongzheng district, 2393-3655, www.handicraft.org.tw).

RIDE the new Maokong Gondola to Maokong, a 3km-long valley located atop the hills of the Muzha Tea Plantation in the southern part of the city. Stop for a cup of Maokong’s specialty tie guanyin, an oolong tea, at one of the dozens of teahouses dotting the mountain landscape (8 Xinguang Road, Section 2, Wenshan district, 2181-2345, http://gondola.trtc.com.tw, Tickets NT$50/adults one way NT$25/child one way).

SOAK in the sulfur hot springs in Beitou, in the city’s north. Guests can take a dip for a few hours or spend the night. I-Tsun has spacious and modern Western and Japanese-style rooms with large private hot springs baths (140 Wenchuan Road, Beitou district, 2891-2121). Whispering Pine Inn has tatami rooms and Western-style rooms with en-suite stone sulfur carbonate hot spring baths (21 Yo Ya Road, Beitou district, 2895-1531). For the ultimate indulgence, visit Villa 32 which boasts European and Japanese-style suites with private hot springs and communal outdoor sulfur springs (32 Zhongshan Road, Beitou district, 6611-8888, www.villa32.com, Rooms NT$16,000-NT$25,000). Top off your bubbly soak with a foot massage. Either get one at the hot springs or look for storefronts throughout Taipei with a picture of two feet. A basic rubdown should run about NT$800-NT$1,000. Ahhh.

Correspondents' Picks: Oxford, England

William Underhill — Mon, 05 May 2008 21:57:26 GMT

William Underhill, a correspondent in the London office of Newsweek, first came to Oxford to study in the 1970s and returned as a resident in 2006. He now works as a correspondent in the London office of NEWSWEEK.

Sights: Oxford is a hybrid: part modern industrial centre - BMW has a plant on the outskirts - part venerable academic community, and its finest architectural treasures can be hard to find. Many are hidden behind the walls of the 35 colleges that together make up the university. (Watch out: mean-spirited commercialism dictates that many colleges now charge for admission). My own favourites aren’t the biggest or the best-known. For the quintessence of creeper-clad old Oxford try the quadrangles of Oriel College or its neighbour, tiny Corpus Christi. If the colleges stale, it’s only a short walk to the Pitt Rivers Museum, an astonishingly mixed assortment of ethnographical curiosities displayed with a fine disregard for modern museum styles.

Drinks:With more than ten thousand thirsty students to please, Oxford has pubs for all tastes, from the richly quaint to rowdy late-night watering holes. Guide books rightly steer tourists towards The Bear – plenty of dark panelling and low ceilings – in Bear Lane, but for a quiet pint in modest surroundings take a ten-minute hike north of the city center to Gardeners’ Arms in Plantation Road. The beers – the selection changes regularly – are among the best in town and so too is the vegetarian menu.

Stroll: One look at a map shows that downtown Oxford is rich in green spaces. For absolute peace head for the university’s under-visited Botanic Gardens, the oldest in Britain. Nowhere quite matches the hothouses for comfort in the chill of an Oxford winter. For one more tourist-free excursion, take a stroll in the University Parks, a vast expanse of greenery on the edge of the main university district and fringed by the extravagantly Gothic mansions of the city’s Victorian suburbs.

Festivities: Avoid the city at all costs early on May Morning – the first of the month - the best known of the university’s festivals when a choir gathers on the top of the chapel tower at Magdalen College to greet the start of summer. Okay, the occasion is steeped in authentic tradition but the singing is inaudible and the crush of drink-sodden students intense. A better spectacle is the annual Eights Weeks rowing contest late in the summer term when the college crews compete for the title of Head of the River on the Thames. Forget the idea of conventional side-by-side races: the object is to bump the boat in front. For the record the “week” is only four days long and the river is known to the university as the Isis, not the Thames. Call it tradition, call it affectation: it’s Oxford.